This combo is what I would buy were I going to do it again." A dual sense relay will allow solar or any other charge system connected to the house battery to charge the starting battery once the house battery is fully charged.Ĭan buy an ACR/VSR in combination with a marine battery switch so that you can force the two batteries to be paralleled or even switch the starting chores to the house battery if need be. to charge the 'house' battery last it will never turn on when the solar panel has charged the 'house' battery. With a single sense relay set up to allow the alt. Single sense relays only sense the voltage from one side. There are two versions of the ACR/VSR's, single sensing and dual sensing. Relays also disconnect when the charge voltage drops, be that because you turned the engine off or there was some large draw on the starting battery. to charge both at the same time, even when they are not at the same state of charge. to first bring the starting battery back up to full charge before connecting the 'house' battery to charge it. The Automatic Charge Relays and Voltage Sensing Relays (different names for essentially the same product) don't have any voltage drop and do something that the diodes can't. I prefer to use a robust marine battery switch for those needs. I don't buy the marketing for those semi-automatic relays that have a remote switch. The constant duty solenoids pre-date the diode isolators and are still a better option though the automatic relays are better still. There are constant duty solenoids (BIG relays) and there are automatic relays. Unless the alternator's voltage regulator monitors the voltage, ideally, at the battery, or not quite as ideally, downstream of the diode isolator the batteries will never see a full charge. this being connecting to the chassis or similar will complete the circuit and re-occur the meltdown! so my Q is can I run a lead off the mud flap with a metal pipe on it for an earth? The things running off this 2nd battery are separate things to the main vehicles electrical system so there is no cross wiring. The main problem is that the cable to the alternator from the 1st batt, coil, starter solenoid is LIVE when the cars off.I didn't expect this.(I contemplated putting the switch here but the van needs its power on all the time). Ill get some pics but its just a cable from the alt peg to a main 12v on/off switch to a + bar with applications running off it then from the switch to the battery. Yes the neg and pos are connected but some switches need an earth to light up the diodes,amps,lights all relying on the EARTH to operate hence they dont. What happened cost $1000 damage to my starter, coil and hall sender in the VW, over heated the coil (60+deg red hot)sending the excess to the rest, so I have to rule out connecting to these components something to do with (1) recommended battery for starting the vehicle or maybe not a modern set up.(`97 model)- anyway mainly via the neg cables to the motor and chassis should be the only go around. This is where my confusion and frustration starts.First off (and not getting confusing) the attempt was made to parallel connect them. Makes sense so far! But what NOT ONE diagram or video tells me is how you power your stereo off it the solenoid. I've watched tons of videos and looked a million diagrams on how to hook up a 4-wire continuous duty solenoid, but found NOTHING that tells how to connect your stereo power to it! Connecting the batteries to the solenoid seems like a simple task, but some make it complicated by suggesting a rocker switch to the solenoid, most just say run a wire that is hot when the car is running to the one small post and a ground wire to the other small post, then a main cable from each large post to each battery's positive terminal. I purchased a 100 amp continuous duty solenoid (assuming that's high enough of an amp rating). My 2006 Saturn Ion 2 has the battery in the trunk, which can be a pain sometimes when your trunk is full, but when it comes to car stereo stuff, that's the perfect place for the battery! Now I only have to run my 1/0 gauge cable from the battery to each amp just a few feet instead of all the way from the engine compartment to the trunk! And since my spare tire compartment is where my battery is, I found there is more than enough room for a second battery! So I want/plan to run a second auxiliary battery to power my stereo and use the main battery for what it was designed for and mainly starting the car.
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